晴空手作皂 Clear Sky 的部落格

圖: Coffee Hair soap 為因應2015.11.7 新北市咖啡爽節市集特別設計的咖啡豐盈洗髮皂，最新量販中~~~

初次用洗髮皂的人，有人用洗髮皂用得很讚。同一塊皂用在別人頭上，卻被批評到不行。有人洗髮後，頭髮澀到用手指都無法將頭髮梳開。吹乾後，又感覺不到蓬鬆感。有人則頭髮黏膩到不行，感覺比沒洗頭更難受... 

現在跟大家分享2年多來使用洗髮皂的經驗，用對方法，就能順利長期使用，從中獲益。

★★ 改用洗髮皂，乾澀是最常聽見的問題。以前用洗髮精，洗頭以後，頭皮跟頭髮上殘留香精及化學物質，掩飾了頭髮的真正狀況，讓我們誤以為頭髮很柔順。洗髮皂卻是徹底把頭皮及頭髮清洗乾淨，洗後不殘留，呈現頭皮頭髮原來的狀況，我們反而不習慣，以為這樣不正常。洗髮皂把毛囊洗乾淨，讓毛囊可以呼吸，不需要出油中和及排頭皮上的殘留物質，頭皮才能逐漸恢復自我修復功能。這段期間如果感覺髮尾乾澀，建議加強護髮/焗髮。 

圖: Angelica Fleeceflower Hair Soap  當歸何首烏洗髮皂: 用當歸、何首烏熬煮，讓精油釋出在油裡，天然無負擔。

 洗髮皂與合成洗髮精不同

洗髮皂主成分為脂肪酸鈉鹽(=肥皂)，為弱鹼性，沒有其他的添加物質。缺點是在較硬的水裡(像台灣南部)，會與硬水裡的礦物質產生皂垢。而合成洗髮精，有高級酒精系(Anionic surfactants)，非離子系(Nonionic surfactants)，胺基酸系(amino acids)等許多種類，大多呈中性~弱酸性，為了突顯產品特徵，還會加入香料，保濕劑，防腐劑等許多添加物質，含矽油的市售潤絲精，會在頭髮上形成薄膜，能輕易讓頭髮質感"看"起來比較好。

圖: Aloe Vera Hair Soap  蘆薈爽絲洗髮皂

台灣有些地區採用硬水(特別是南部)，洗髮皂碰上硬水及頭髮上殘留的化學物質，會產生皂垢(頭髮變得黏黏梳不開)，這時只要隔2~3天用醋水(一杯醋一臉盆水)/檸檬酸水/酵素水潤絲(洗髮、潤絲、用清水沖乾淨)，就可以解決皂垢問題。長髮正妹比較需要用醋水潤絲，短髮帥妹帥哥則不太需要，持續用1週以上就沒有感覺皂垢問題了。

 洗髮皂的正確使用方法:

• 用大量清水將頭髮上的汗與污垢沖掉。
• 使用洗髮皂在頭上搓出大量泡泡。盡量從頭皮到髮尾順著清洗，不要把頭髮搓亂。
• 洗完如有糾結狀況，用手指稍微整理一下再吹乾。
• 吹乾前，在髮尾抹植物油(荷荷芭油或橄欖油)或精油保護秀髮。建議避免使用含化學物質的潤絲乳或護髮產品。

如果洗完吹乾有黏黏梳不開的情形，下一次洗髮時可以

• 以檸檬酸（檸檬酸+純水 比例約 1:50~500）或醋(醋1:水10~20 ) 潤絲。
• 檸檬酸潤絲必須在頭髮完全沖洗乾淨之後使用。
• 將頭髮均勻的泡在醋水裡面3~5秒，確保每根頭髮都能均勻泡到檸檬酸水/醋水，效果會比較好。
• 注意別讓頭髮長時間處於酸性物質中，可能會傷害頭髮。
• 只要不再使用含化學物質的護髮產品，檸檬酸水/醋水的濃度與使用次數可以逐漸減少，直到完全不需要為止。適應期因個人髮質與體質而異，估計約半年後醋水即可逐漸減量或完全不再需要醋水。

持續使用洗髮皂，杜絕化學物質與頭皮的接觸，頭皮會愈來愈健康，髮根也會更堅強。

圖: Camellia Oil Hair Soap 苦茶油(30%) 洗髮沐浴皂

People who use hair soap for the first time may respond differently. Some people find hair soap an excellent product for their hair. Some people, however, feel that their hair becomes very sticky after using hair soap. Some feel that their hair becomes so dry that each of the hair can't seem to be separated from one another and don't have the fluffy hair that they expect. And some find soap scum looking like dandruff on their hair. And many other complaints…

The same piece of soap might not work as good for others and complaints keep pouring in. In fact, hair soap is totally different from shampoo (a synthetic product) and we need to master some skills in order to be able to benefit from the hair soap.

圖: Lemon Mint Hair Soap 檸檬薄荷洗髮皂

The difference between a hair soap and shampoo:
Hair soap contains mainly sodium fatty acid (=soap). It is mildly alkaline and no other chemical compounds are added. Its drawback is that it generates scum with minerals found in hard water (as supplied to South Taiwan and Kuala Lumpur). 
Synthetic shampoo contains anionic surfactants (such as ammonium lauryl sulfate ALS), non-ionic surfactants (such as cetyl alcohol), amino acids, and other compounds which are mildly acidic. Fragrance or humectants (such as propylene glycol), preservatives (such as Methylisothiazolinone or MIT) and others are also added. Commercially available shampoo that contains silicone forms a thin film on the hair and makes the hair "looks" good.

The correct way to use hair soap:
1. Wash your hair in running water to flush away sweat and dirt on the hair.
2. Use hair soap to produce a generous amount of foam.
3. Rinse your hair thoroughly from scalp to the end of your hair. You may apply plant oil or essential oil on the ends of your hair as hair food. Avoid using hair products that contain chemical substances. 

If you find your hair becomes sticky after hair wash, follow the method below:

1.Use citric acid water (citric acid +  water in ratio of about 1:50~500) or vinegar (vinegar 1: water 10~20) as conditioner. 

2.Use citric acid water/vinegar water only after you have rinsed your hair thoroughly. 

3.Soak your hair evenly in the vinegar water for 3~5 seconds.

4.Rinse your hair thoroughly with lots of running water.

5.Avoid leaving the citric acid water on your hair for a long time.

6.Apply moisturizing oil (jojoba oil or olive oil) before you blow-dry your hair.